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The top moments from the runways in Italia.
Fendi, Gucci, Prada, so many vowels, so many good looks to choose from. BAZAAR does the hard work for you, distilling the shows down to their essence with 5 standout looks from each of the major collections. See what’s happening on the runways of Milan this week.
Leave to Prada to make sex intellectual. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’s Spring 2022 collection may be titled “Seduction, Stripped Down,” but there were none of the bra tops and naked dresses seen on other runways in this show simulcast from Milan and Shanghai. In the Prada-verse, the heels are always kitten height and sex appeal is all about suggestion. The co-creative directors reduced tropes of classical femininity like lingerie and corsetry to their most pure form and recontextualized them. So the curve of an underwire was applied to a polo-collar sweater, while graphic tees and jackets came embellished with corset laces. Many of the aforementioned looks trailed anomalous strips of couture silk, which the show notes poetically called “the memory of a train.” —Alison S. Cohn
For every instance of cottagecore romance spotted on the Sportmax runway there was a dose of unapologetic, here-to-take-up-space attitude for counterbalance. Corsetry, scooped-out necklines, raw-edged tulle, and dainty florals are the stuff of sublime sweetness—and best taken in small doses. The presence of that tougher stuff is what adds interest and intrigue, making you wonder what the woman behind the clothes is all about. Wide-leg trousers and oversized jackets are ready to work, though the softness that’s inherent with such a slouchy fit doesn’t ape at menswear. Rather, it’s sensual and soft, clearly for her and not stolen from the boys. Paired together, both sides of the coin present an interesting take on modern femininity. —Leah Melby Clinton
The Y2K style renaissance was out in full force for Blumarine’s Spring 2022 collection. Butterfly motifs emerged on necklaces, supersize belts and tie-on tops while a symphony of pastels were revealed through gossamer-thin V-cut gowns in buttercup yellow or rendered in bubblegum pink halterneck dresses printed with roses. Nicola Brognano’s creations look a lot like something the pop stars of the early ‘00s would easily gravitate to—Britney and J. Lo included—but we think Gen Z would be equally enchanted by a pair of chiffon low-waist cargo pants and a baby crop top. You only have to scroll through TikTok to see that. With the transparent oversized glasses, silk head scarves, big hoop earrings and low-slung belts against patchwork denim and shrunken bomber jackets, there was proof too that styling has a lot to do with Blumarine’s early aughts aesthetic. Lotta Volkova, the stylist behind Vetements fast rise, was behind it. Slap on one of the brand’s bedazzled logo belts and consider it a celebration of more is more. —Kristen Bateman
We didn’t quite get a “revenge summer” of carefree travel to far-flung holiday destinations thanks to Delta, and what next summer will look like is anyone’s guess at this point. But Max Mara makes a very chic case for escape being a state of mind. The brand took cues from author Françoise Sagan’s uniform of workwear classics like fisherman smocks, laborers jackets, mechanics overalls, and carpenter pants, which were given the runway treatment in gabardine, canvas, poplin, and indigo denim with contrast top stitching. You may recall her novel Bonjour Tristesse from college French. But did you know that Sagan wrote the existentialist masterpiece as a 17-year-old forced to spend the summer of 1953 at home in Paris while her family went away on holiday, after failing her year-end exams? Time to start preparing our writer’s wardrobe for summer 2022. —Alison S. Cohn
Say “magic carpet ride” and you either get Disney’s Aladdin (1992) or Steppenwolf’s hit song (1968). Both apply to Etro’s newest collection, which sews its signature textile mix onto hippie-approved rainbow crochet and rave-worthy vinyl jackets alike. Veronica Etro did some denim-and-track-pant fusions, too, which will hopefully inspire DIY fashion fans worldwide to remix their old clothes instead of chucking them entirely. A whole new world? Not exactly; Etro’s sticking pretty close to its DNA. And with both runway newbies and megastars like Joan Smalls on the catwalk, the brand makes the case that boho chic isn’t going anywhere, and that it’s just as appropriate on a new mom (we see you, Grace Elizabeth!) as a teen starlet whose wish is every fashion brand’s command. —Faran Krentcil
Lucie and Luke Meier are designing clothing that women want to wear—intellectual women, chic women, choose your elevated adjective. The palette for Spring 2022 is soft, as if filtered, pale greens, peach, buttercup yellow, ivory. There are strong jackets layered over trousers or jeans, oversized pieces, nipped and tailored pieces, a perfect sweetheart neckline white dress, knitted separates, and a crochet series. Blouses are wrapped and textural—nothing is as expected. To wit, there’s even a zebra print and some sequins. In accessories, the brand’s new Cannolo bag is cylindrical, mirroring jewelry that leverages circles in gold and geometric patterns. Mule boots will be a winner this season, they look cool and are easy to wear. The message is this: appears simple, probably isn’t. Still waters run deep, as they say. —Kerry Pieri
Today was a big one for the Roberto Cavalli label— it marks the first runway collection under the creative direction of Fausto Puglisi. Puglisi is a dream fit for the brand—an Italian designer who embraces sensuality in clothing—and clearly appreciates an animal print. Puglisi dug into the extensive Cavalli archives, and came up with many references to the ’70s—dresses are slim and cut on the bias, with cut-outs and one-shoulders. All ripe for after-dark. If the Cavalli girl needs a break from the dance floor, boxy suits look just as cool. As the show notes say, the collection, “shouts ‘I’m the party.’” There’s never been a better time to bring back some fun and remember you had it in you all the time. —Kerry Pieri
For many women, the current vibe is “love thy loungewear as thyself.” Brunello Cucinelli is cool with that—but he’s going to give you a major upgrade. The Italian label went into full slouch mode with his latest collection, which mixes slinky metallic knitwear and silky pleated separates that feel like PJs, but look like you’ve consulted a famous Italian tailor. (Maybe because one made these clothes…) And though some models did wear sweatbands and tube socks as part of their looks, these pieces are made to be so easily cool, you can get dressed for work without breaking a sweat. Pay special attention to the suiting and square-toed ballet flats, along with a red embroidered varsity sweater that’s truly game for anything. —Faran Krentcil
Kim Jones had nearly zero ramp up to creating his own Fendi ethos. His Fendi woman has been unabashedly glamorous and achingly cool since he debuted his first collection in the depths of the pandemic. While she has an appreciation for the past, she most certainly doesn’t live there. That throwback mentality showed up for Spring 2022 with a collaboration with the estate of illustrators Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos. The ’70s have been enjoying a bit of a renaissance, and Studio 54-worthy dresses that leverage Lopez’s iconic drawings feel right on time. “While I’ve been looking at Karl’s legacy at the house, I’ve also been looking
around him, at his contemporaries – at who he was interested in,” explained Jones. “Lopez was a friend of Karl’s, and has always been someone who inspired me. He was forward thinking; inclusive; looked up to by everyone from Andy Warhol to Steven Meisel and David Hockney. I wanted to introduce him to a new generation.”
In keeping with the era (through a modern lens), there are also fringe dresses, suiting with bikini inspired tops layered underneath, bold patterned furs with matching bags, and sheer black lace gowns. It’s smart dressing that makes a statement—and it’s the perfect start to a week in Milano. —Kerry Pieri